Sunday, September 2, 2012

Morimoto Takeover...

In this installment of In The Kitchen With Big Sexy....hold it....we need to change the name to reflect what the weekend was about.  So we'll try this title...

Destination Dining!

Yeah, that's better...

In the inaugural installment of Destination Dining, the team descended into Napa and paid a visit to the restaurant owned by "Iron Chef" Masaharu Morimoto, Morimoto Napa.

I was first informed that there was an Iron Chef restaurant within driving distance from Alvina at the Yolo DA's office.  That got me thinking...then I spoke to my friend Lori who lives in Honolulu and mentioned it to her ans told me that she had been to the one in Waikiki and that it was spectacular! Again, the wheels are spinning....

So after juggling some dates around, I got a large group set up for the 1st of September.  And we descended onto the street of Napa and took it over...(You Wrestling fans cue the NWO music here...)

The day started with Patty and I meeting up with our friends Kelly and Terry and their kids over at Downtown Joe's.  Because I was planning on going berzerk at Morimoto later, I decided on the Heirloom Tomato and Mozzarella Salad, which was excellent.  But the company was even better! We hung out there and caught up on things, and without getting too heavy into it, there is a couple down in Santa Cruz who learned the hard way that Kelly is the WRONG lawyer to test in the the street...don't let the smile and the suit fool you...my girl can handle her bidness, yes I said bidness, and regulate a situation!  We had a LOT of fun and it was great to see them and walk around downtown Napa just chatting.

As the time approached for our reservation at Morimoto, the team began to roll into town...

Dwayne and fellow food blogger Susan, from http://susan-susancancook.blogspot.com/ called to let us know they were tinkering around  town, my big brother Cass and his wife Bobbi shot me a text saying they were in route.  It was beginning to shape up...

At 5:30 the six of us were seated and we were soon joined by John and Gina, and finally by Nicole and Maya.  It was time to see if the Iron Chef had the goods...

We ordered a bunch of sushi rolls, tea, beer, and wine and just as we started to slow down the momentum, I ratcheted it back up and ordered the biggest Chef's Sampling platter they had and that put us into sushi comas...  I think only Nicole and Maya and Gina had the energy for desert.  We were all just exhausted and satisfied.  To share what we enjoyed, I present..."The Rundown"...

Lobster Wonton
Calamari Salad
Wagyu Beef Carpaccio
2 California Rolls
2 Spicy Tuna Rolls
2 Soft Shell Crab Rolls
Salmon Skin Roll
Spicy Yellowtail Roll
Unagi Avocado Roll
Yellowtail Roll
Assorted individual Nigiri pieces with Unagi and Crab
And the behemoth Chef's Sampler

We.  Ate.

Now I have been turned on to the best fish suppliers in this region, but the fish they had at Morimoto was dare I say it, better... Could it be due to the closeness in proximity to the Bay Area? Not sure, but I do know near the end of the evening I decided it was time to test them like I test all sushi places for quality, the Unagi.

Without question the Unagi, or Barbecued Eel is my favorite selection of fish, and it can easily be flubbed by a substandard chef.  But when it's done right, it is magical...I have seen many people who claim to not like sushi because its raw try this, because its barbecued, and have their mind blown.

So I ordered up six pieces of Unagi for us to take a shot at...and all of us had the same glazed over look of total food ecstasy...the Unagi was perfect.  Susan put it best: "We should have STARTED with this..." Could not agree more!  We all had a great time and have made plans to do another Destination Dining event in December.  As cliche as it sounds, great food is made greater when shared with good friends...

Morimoto gets my highest possible recommendation and full on Big Sexy endorsement!

Yes, I bought his cookbook...

Until next time...:)

Sunday, May 6, 2012

Field Trip to....The Kitchen!!

Is it May already...? Where does the time go...? It feels like it was just last week that I was at Kru, home of the Big Sexy roll, with my friend Michelle bouncing around new ideas for the blog.  And it  feels like yesterday that my big brother Cass rolled into town with nephew Nathaniel for lunch... I have to learn how to budget my free time better, which was among the topics that was discussed at lunch with Michelle.  But there is the framework of a gameplan in place, so stay tuned...

I have a young friend who is about to graduate from high school and has his College applications out and has begun to hear back about the places he may be beginning his secondary education.  This is really a bright kid, so I told him that when he got all of the acceptances that we would go out to celebrate, his choice, anywhere he wanted.  So the acceptances begin to roll in, UCLA, Cal Berkeley, then West Point.  I asked if he was ready to decide, he said not yet, then he gets the final acceptance.  Harvard. Yes. So I asked where he wanted to go, and by this time he had spoken to Smurf about, and she clued him in about The Kitchen Restaurant. Hands down my favorite place for fine dining, so when I asked where he wanted to go, he sheepishly said "The Kitchen" and I said "Done! You earned it!"

So when I made the reservation, and thanks to Bobbie for getting us in on relative short notice, I also decided that I would give the restaurant the full review to see if it really is all that I say it is or if I'm just romanticizing things.  I was determined to call it right down the middle, praise where appropriate, and criticism when called for.

As we arrived Jordan, the student, and I met each other in the parking lot and as we made our way in we were greeted by Manager Eric and one of the servers, a very attractive woman whose name eludes me for the present, but she was fine...but I digress...  It was great to see Eric in the new role of Manager because he worked his way up from server and earned this new role, and I was happy for him.  Once we were seated it was clear that our third party, Nicole, was going to be a tad late, but Jordan and I were enjoying a couple of cool beverages while waiting for her arrival.  And as we waited, several members of the staff popped by to say hello because I hadn't been in since November, so it had been a while for me between visits.  I then went and found Noah, the "Chef De Cuisine", who runs the entire program there and we visited for a moment while things were entering the final stages of being presented.  One thing that stands out about the Kitchen is that everyone is so nice there. The service is the absolute best. When I was speaking with Noah, I came back to my seat and found my napkin folded and back on the plate, just as it was when I was seated.  Owner Randall Selland  makes sure that attention is paid to all of the details and no detail is too small and none escape his eye.

At the Kitchen they do a multi-course demonstration dinner, all of the courses are prepared right in front of the guests, and we are encouraged to get up and walk around and see how things are done, to see how things are prepared, and they answer any question that a guest might have.  I decided to test that by asking Taylor, the Pastry Chef about cleaning the cutting boards and got some great information about maintenance of them.  Still nothing for me to beef about, and by now Nicole had arrived and it was time for dinner and for the first course...

The "Opening Dish" was "A Soup of White Asparagus Creamed, with potato, (they used the phrase "Tater Tots" but its not any tater tot I've ever had), Shaved Green Asparagus, Baby Asparagus and House Cure Prosciutto".  This was excellent! It was thick, but not too thick or heavy, the tater tots were placed right on top in the center of the soup and and broke apart with the just the hint of pressure from the spoon.  The asparagus variations were all flavorful and the creaming of the asparagus was just the right consistency.  I loved it and would be hitting that up again later.  One thing I need to mention about the Kitchen, they are all about the guest being treated as if they were a guest in the home as opposed to a restaurant.  This means if you want seconds, or thirds of anything, they will gladly bring to you.  If you want to take something home with you, they will gladly fix you up,and I have left there with many a T.G.P. on various occasions.  Cass put is best, "If yo leave there hungry, it's on you!"

The Second Plate was Sea Scallop-Lobster "Cannelloni", and Sea of Black Truffle, Lemon, Chervil and Pickled Spring Vegetables.  Ok, anyone who knows me knows I love seafood and especially Scallops.  So when you couple Scallops with Lobster....total pleasure overload...  Noah explained that he crafted the Cannelloni out of the Scallops and then filled them with Lobster.  This was just ridiculous. I was expecting to be overwhelmed by the combination, but they complimented each other perfectly.  The Lemon and Truffle acted to offset the seafood and this combination was truly incredible.  The hard part is to get through all the courses without doubling up and thus filling up on other things before completing the menu.  I have no clue as to how Noah took Scallops and shaped them into Cannelloni, but this was truly a masterstroke, this was one of the more innovative and delicious things I've had there, and that is saying a LOT!

Next was an intermission where Sushi and Sashimi  are served, both inside and out on the veranda.  It gives the guests an opportunity to walk around and mingle, and interact with other guests and the staff.  During this portion Jordan and I were approached by a number of guests to congratulate him about being accepted into Harvard.  At this point in time he hadn't decided on Harvard or West Point, (Of course I was remaining neutral the entire time ..."cough" -Harvard- "cough") and so many people were openly lobbying for either school.  But what impressed me was watching how courteously and respectfully Jordan handled all of the attention.  At one point Randall stopped by and they got into a discussion on Healthcare and Jordan schooled Randall on the 10th Amendment, and how it applies in the issue of Healthcare and the Government.  The 10th Amendment! (For those who don't know what that says, open a book...)

Up next was Canadian Chinook Salmon and Sustainable Bluefin Tuna, with Seaweed Gelee, Crisp Sesame, Rock Shrimp, and White Soy-Miso Butter.  Before you ask, "Hey, two Seafood entree's in a row?", let me address that as best I can.  The format roughly goes Soup, Salad, Seafood, Beef, then Desert.  So the Scallop and Lobster was technically a "salad".  Now as for the Salmon and Tuna...yes. I was stunned by this, and I've been there many times, but I was stunned. Nicole told me later that I did what everybody does when they visit for the first time and take that first bite.  Your eyes roll into the back of your head, and your mouth just droops open in disbelief.  For my friends who enjoy "The Boondocks" cartoon, it's like having a case of the "Itis".  The Salmon and Tuna were prepared excellently, done just enough to retain the rich flavor, yet was still flaky and retained their texture.  And were seasoned perfectly.  At the Kitchen there are no Salt or Pepper shakers on the tables. They know EXACTLY what they are doing as far as seasonings, however if you want some, they will get it for you..  Truly the Guest is King there. The Rock Shrimp were an excellent accompaniment to the fish, they all integrated perfectly and seamlessly and were truly a delight of ecstasy.  In fact I am such a fan of their seafood, I once asked Randall where they get it from and he told me! So when I'm doing my own Sushi or any kind of Seafood, I get mine the same place they do at the Kitchen. And don't think I haven't told my guests whom I've prepared meals for at my home that I get my seafood the same place the Kitchen does, and when I'm asked where that is, I simply reply: "Can't help you baby, for professionals only..."

Next up was the Meat course.  Natural Beef Tenderloin and Rabbit Roulade with Sauce Allemande, Mushrooms, Foie Gras and Croutons.  By this time I was almost in a food coma, I was truly stuffed and reaching the limit.  But I never quit, so I pressed on.  I had never had Rabbit before and was a bit apprehensive. Just like I was at my very first visit there several years ago.  The Beef course that night was Buffalo, and Cass and I looked at each and said with our eyes, "Hell no...!".  Randall came our table and asked if there was a problem and we said "Yeah, it's Buffalo.."  Randall asked us to simply try it, and if we didn't like it he would make us something else.  So we tried it, and were immediately hooked! That Buffalo didn't stand a chance!  From that point on anything Randall presents, I'm eating with no reservations.  I trust him and Noah completely.  My mother always busts my chops when I say that I don't like a particular thing, she'll point out, "If they served it at The Kitchen you'd eat it!", which of course is an accurate assessment...  So with that in mind, I tried the Rabbit and was blown away because it was a flavor that I had never experienced before, it wasn't like most beef, nor was it like any poultry.  If I had to describe, and I'm no expert here, I would say it was in the realm of Venison, but again its only a guess.  It was moist and not chewy at all, it really just melted away in my mouth.  I've had the Tenderloin before and while good, I prefer the Rack of Lamb there.  If the Kitchen can't turn me on to Beef Tenderloin, then maybe it just "ain't my thang"...

Finally we are at Desert, but before we did that Jordan and I hit that White Asparagus Soup again...Desert was Warmed German Chocolate Cake, Walnut Crumble, Ice Cream and Candied Pecans, with Minced Strawberries.  I made certain to bring Patty a piece of that cake or else it could be "Booty kickin time" for Big Sexy... The cake and Ice Cream, while simple sounding was so far from being simple, and so sweet and just the right way to close the evening.  I asked Taylor about the preparation of the Strawberries, and she chopped the Strawberries herself with a large knife. Me? In the Cuisinart for a rough chop, but that's why the Kitchen is The Kitchen, attention to detail and everything done the best way possible.  There was the Tea Service as well, where a guest may select from various teas, or make their own custom blend, having that cup of tea and just coolin out at the end of the night, reflecting on the great meal that was just enjoyed.  Best way to cap things off.  But I'm not at all sophisticated about teas, so when people say "Earl Grey" or "Chamomile" I got nothing for them, I drink Nestea.  And the next time I go I'm taking some with me, Noah will probably throw a spatula at me, but dammit that's the tea I like!

As I was consciously looking for an area to bust them on, there simply isn't one.  It's the best for a reason, but know that if you go your wallet is going to take a smack, but never once have I thought about that at then end of the evening.  It's never been "Man I just spent xxx dollars!", it's always "Damn that was good..." as I float back to my car. As many times as I've been, I swear it's like the first time every time.  And I love taking close friends there because it is my absolutely favorite place to dine, it's the type of place that really sells itself.  There have been people who have hesitated after being invited, that's on them, because the invitation will not be extended again.  There was a possibility that Nicole couldn't make it the other night, and when word of that got out there was a firestorm of emails and texts of people willing to jump in to her place. I repeat the place sells itself, once you go, you WILL go back...

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

The Big Sexy Sushi Roll...

Greeting loves of great food!

Last week for Valentine's Day, Patty and I had a late dinner at Kru Contemporary Japanese Cuisine.  I'm in there semi-regularly and while Patty doesn't care for sushi, the non-sushi items on the menu are to her liking so it's always a good destination.  I was introduced to the chef and Owner Billy Ngo by Randall Selland, Executive Chef and Owner of The Kitchen Restaurant, and my personal cooking "Yoda".  This was several years back during a Sushi Competition here in town, and if Randall says this guy has the goods, then you can take it to the bank.  I found Billy to be very nice and when invited me to try his then-new restaurant I went by and was floored by the skill and the flavors.  I don't know where he gets his fish from, but his supplier is among the best, I've been to other places in town and had dry, rubbery sushi.  And what sets a sushi place apart for me is whether or not they get the Unagi right.  For the uninitiated, Unagi is barbecued Eel, and when done right...yesssss...it's moist and tender, the sauce compliments but doesn't overpower, it's not that easy to get right. I've been to many places and if the Unagi is wrong, I never go back.  It's that simple.  My first visit to Kru, the Unagi was... Absolutely. Perfect.  Every time I go, it's... Absolutely.  Perfect.  I've even run into Randall there on a few occasions, and he can eat anywhere, including any of his restaurants, and if HE's a regular there...you know it's the stuff!

Recently I was there with a friend and we were talking about some business matters, and I wasn't feeling at all well so I wasn't eating that night, and as I watched what he ordered and it wasn't familiar to me, so I asked what it was and he said "It's not on the menu, I asked Billy to let his imagination run wild and do whatever he wanted."  Interesting.... Mental note made for my next visit...

Which brings us back to this past Valentine's Day, while we were dining, I asked Billy if he would make something up for me, not from the menu.  He said that he'd be glad to, and asked what I liked most.  We all know I love Unagi, and I am also a big fan of Hamachi (Yellowtail Tuna), so Billy took that sparse direction, and came up this:


He started with some chopped Hamachi and some green onions and placed them in the rice roll, then topped it with Unagi and some sliced Avocado, and topped that with Tempura Crumbles and thinly sliced Nori (Seaweed sheets).  And the sauces applied are Spicy Garlic Aioli, a house Teriyaki sauce and a Sweet Chili Oil Glaze.  There was one more sauce, but I didn't get it in my notes, and the best way to be sure is to take a trip there...  When the creation was served to me I was stunned by how it all came together, and if I'm being honest the photo above was taken yesterday, because the first time I had it, it didn't last long enough to be photographed...  Billy asked me what I thought of the new creation, and I told him that it was fantastic!  And next time I come in, (which was today coincidentally) this is what I want, so he needs to keep that recipe on his fingertips.  He said that he would but I needed to name it so he would associate it and be able to re-create it.  "I get to name it?" I asked, he said "It's your roll, you get to name it." So of course, I christened it "The Big Sexy", and when I went in tonight with Nicole I said to Billy "You know what I want..." and he prepared me a Big Sexy and it was magnificent again...

Next time you are having a Sushi fit, stop into Kru and give the Big Sexy a try...I'm trying to get it on the menu officially...:)

Until next time troops!


Sunday, January 15, 2012

BBQ lessons with Big Bro

Greetings food lovers, the new year is here and what better way to kick things off than hanging with my brother Cass.

It's Playoff time in Football, (Playoffs?!? You kiddin me? Playoffs!?-That will never get old..) and since I hadn't had a chance to roll with my big brother Cass in far too long, we were talking the other day about new appliances in my kitchen, and I mentioned how I know nothing about barbecuing and reminiscing about the old days in Oakland fiending over Flint's Bar-B-Que joint.  If you lived in Oakland or Berkeley in the 70's or 80's and wanted some barbecue, you went to Flint's, everything else was a step down.  At any time of the day on Shattuck Avenue where it was there were two constants: There was ALWAYS a long line out front, and there was the aroma that could make you wreck your car.

(Above) The legendary Flint's Bar-B-Q in later years before its closure...

Once they closed down, I have been completely underwhelmed by barbecue because I was spoiled and didn't know how good it was, until it was gone...  I've tried several places here in Sacramento over the last couple of years, and nothing stands out.  In fact most were half-assed at best, and at worst just lethal...

So instead of sitting here beefing, (get it "beef"-ing? Thank you! I'll be here all week!) I decided that I would try and re-create the magic of Flint's in my kitchen.  The first thing I did was give Cass a call as, as previously stated, I know nothing about barbecuing. And I turned to Big Bro because he is a true Grill Master, so the first thing we talked about was what I wanted to accomplish, I told him "Flint's", to that he said "You don't aim low do you?"... So the first thing was to decide on the type of sausage to use, Flint's always used a coarsely ground sausage, and that pre-packaged stuff in the grocery store simply will not get it done.  He told me that I needed to get freshly ground sausage from my butcher, and let them know that I want it coarsely ground, and once I did that he would come up and show me how to smoke because that was how they did it at Flint's, smoking the links long over low heat.  I asked him what I needed for Smoking since I had no idea, he said wood chips, either Mesquite or Hickory, some coal, a sauce of my choice and we are ready to go!

The first thing I did was head over to my butcher at Corti Brothers, the lovely Lacy, and I asked her about ground sausage for smoking and she said "I have just what you need Sexy....", and she ground and cased me 2 pounds of Hot Italian Sausage and 2 pounds of Mild Italian Sausage, and I also picked up some Bratwurst for variety, then I picked up some Mesquite wood chips and sauce and was ready to rock!

Cass got here and we assembled the grill and let the chips soak in water for about 30 minutes, then the first thing I noticed was how he spread the coals on the grate of the grill, he took two small piles of coals, and put them on opposite sides of the grate, and when I asked why he told me that we are doing indirect heat which is the key to smoking.  After we lit the coals, and let them get hot, then we took a handful of wood chips and spread them on the coals, and since they were wet, they created the smoke.  We placed two groups of links on the grill, after spraying the top grate with Pam to ensure the links don't stick, we placed them on the grate and covered and watched the smoke pipe through the opening, from there we let them cook for about 8 minutes per side, then used the digital thermometer to check the internal temperature and once it hit 160 degrees they were just about done, but not quite...  as they simmered, Cass brushed some sauce on them so they could absorb that extra flavor.  Then we removed them from the grill and placed them on the cutting board to rest for about 5 minutes, then I sliced them on an angle like they did at Flint's back in the day, and slathered them with sauce and placed them in the oven, covered with foil, for 10 minutes on the "warm" setting.  That was to allow the sauce to infuse the links on the inside as well and retain their moisture and juices.  And once they were removed from the oven...yes! Cass had re-created the past!  All the local BBQ places are bullshit...yeah, I said it! I defy them to step their game up, show some passion, and make something like this. THIS is what I've been trying to get! THESE are the flavors that have been missing from my barbecue experiences.  And from a equipment and supply standpoint, it's not difficult, so there is no excuse not to reproduce this.  And some of these so-called barbecue places need to learn that hot dogs ARE NOT hot links...

Now that I have the knowledge and training as a part of my arsenal, I definitely will be doing this more frequently.  It's too good not to...!

(Above) Cass on a bottle of "Haterade", taken from at home office.  Can't get THAT everywhere...

As we were cooking, Cass and I start talking about doing a "Iron Chef" or "Top Chef" challenge to see what's up, I'm thinking we'll ask some friends to suggest some things and we will each do our slant on them.  Or let people decide the main ingredients and let us do the rest.  It's in the planning stages now, but why not? Anyone who knows me will tell you that I have a problem with words like "quit" ,"can't", and "no".  Lets do what we want to do and damn what the naysayers think!  I will keep you posted on the Big Sexy vs Cass "Top Chopped Iron Throwdown" cook-off in the near future.

Editors note: As I wolfed down my barbecue this afternoon, Cass and I watched a GREAT playoff game between the Saints and 49ers, and as much as it pains me I have to give it up to my 49er fans... So Rosanna, Vlade, Jeannine, and Alexis, enjoy the day, your team earned it...

Until next time troops,

Big Sexy